Monday, October 4, 2010

Notes from Eastern Slovenia


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Sept 30 to Oct 4

We left Ljubljana and headed east.  Mostly we were on back roads but got on the super highway for a short stretch.  When we came to the toll booths there were lanes with a picture of a car and what we interpreted to mean that you had to have an electronic pass gizmo, and lanes with green signs for trucks to pay.  We got into the truck green line since we did not have the gizmo.  The attendant looked at us with strange look and just waved us through.  We began to decode this as we drove on.  I had read in the guidebook that cars had to buy an “auto transit” pass when you crossed into the country.  Since there was no official border crossing where we arrived, I just forgot about it. Nadi, the Mayalasian, had crossed in from Croatia where there is a formal border crossing. They said he had to buy a “auto transit” but that they had none, but he could buy one at any gas station later.  Five gas stations and he never found one.  Guess I will have to wait and see if any strange charges show up on the CC when I get home.
picture coming soon

Roaring down the autoroute in the Punto, everything was passing us, so I bumped the speed up to 130kmh/80mph. This is a strange Italian car as they are supposed to like to go fast, but Punto starting flashing “speed” and chiming at me.  I found out that if you ignore it, it goes away.

Filling Punto can be painful to the wallet.
equals 9.7 gallons/ $61.33

Eastern Slovenia is mainly flat with some areas of rolling hills. On the hills they grow grapes, as chronicled already.  On the flat they grow crops, mainly corn and pumpkin like looking things.  We walked through the country fields and most of pumpkin like fields had hundreds of  these laying busted open. We could not figure it out until we came upon a field that had 5 gallon buckets sitting next to the pumpkins.  They were opening up the pumpkin things and harvesting the seeds.


did i mention they grow corn...lots of it.
We are staying in an apartment in the house of Paul and Rachel Dennison, lately of  Suffolk, England now of Turnisce.  They got tired of the rat race and sold everything and moved here. She teaches English in the school and he takes care of the “garden” what we call “the yard” and Yogi, a fine dog. They are great people and can not do enough to make our stay enjoyable. (escape2slovenia.com)


Almost all the houses in this country are picture perfect and Turnisce is no exception.









the baker

the bakers wife
travel hint. at most chain groceries you have to weigh and tag your veggies

I mentioned  to Paul that since we are so close to Hungry we would like some goulash.  He sent us to the Zeveda Restaurant instead to sample the local equivalent called Bograc.  Glad we knew what we wanted, and had it written down, as this is not tourist country and the menu was all in Slovenian.  The waiter brought out a large bowl of what is basically beef stew. There was probably over a pound of beef and some potatoes in the dish.  That and a beer filled me up for 2 days.  Of course Vicki took hers home and ate on it for two days.


There are various holidays like, day of the dead, all souls day, etc that are big days for florist and cemeteries, as most people take flowers to the dead.  Sept 23 is one of those days here, so there are lots of flowers in the cemetaries.  Here, though, they also grow flowers on the graves which is kind of nice.  Of course, a few, are long forgotten, or as will be in my case, longed disliked and long forgotten.

 flowers growing on the grave
this is what mine will look like
We are here to hide from the political noise in the USA, but they are having them here also.  The good news is we can not understand a thing they are saying and they serve wine, slipavtz and food..oh yea and music.  After everybody is schnockered, they all start to sing.They set up these events and you see them rotating around the villages.

the man of the hour
Went to the city of Ptuj.  Vicki’s loves saying as it is pronounced P-too-e.   Sort of like spitting.  Nice old town.  We had a lunch of meats for 2 (the fish was to expensive), but would have fed 4 or more.


Saw OS and their castle.  Nice castle but the interesting thing is they have mirrors on tables so you can see the art on the ceiling with out walking around looking up.




We had lunch with Paul at the local bar.  They serve only a fixed meal, called Malice, and it is soup, salad, entre, and drink (beer for us) and cost $8.


He then sent us off to a park in the woods that had energy fields with healing powers and healing water.  A poor man's Lourdes.  I make no judgement on the healing properties, but I do know that it caused my camera to do strange things.  I stood in one of the circles and the picture washed out. I stood out of the circle and took a picture and Vicki's face washed out.  We both stood out of the circle in identical light facing the same direction and the picture was normal  You decide.






Sometimes you trim the house to meet the road.


 So, we know most of the roads signs, but we were told these don't mean what you think. This means that if the little suckers are out of the cross walk they are free game.  Thus, the green backpack vs the red one. Unlike the over-protected children in the States, children here are required to go to school by themselves at age seven.


Why is this photo significant?  It is the only trash we have seen in this country.  Somebody had a party on the steps to the castle Saturday night.


In men's bathrooms in the States, they sell "sex protection" and maybe something smelly.  Here they sell toothbrushes and breath freshener.

The local international airport.




i took a wrong turn some where


not a clue


the kebab (gyro) has become the main fast food in most of europe. 


Still having focus problems with the camera.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

U.S. to Issue Terrorism Alert for Travel to Europe

Keep them scared and keep them home.  If I get blown up you can say "I told you so".  Until then, stay home...less competition for me for the best places to visit.

ps: Not sure why they need this as they have a World Wide Terrorism Alert.  Doesn't that World Wide cover Europe or are we failling geography again.

pss:  Interesting, the blog tries to spell check in Slovenian, so any spelling errors are not my fault.....this time.

MY NEW BEST FRIENDS

We left Ljubljana on Thursday and headed to the far eastern end of Slovenia. (More about that later.)
I was going to post to the blog when we left here, but today was too great to wait for that.

When we started this adventure we put Slovenia on the list as we wanted to go somewhere new. Then I took it off because of other opportunities in Italy. Then I read a fellow Vespa rider's account of the country and heard comments from our friend Daniel, a jazz musician with Nomo that tours Europe regularly, both of which said we had to go because it is the most beautiful country in Europe. (More on that later) So, I put it back on the tour. It has been great but today has set it apart from all other places.

We are staying with Paul and Rachel Dennison, two escapees from the rat race in England. They recommended that we go to Hisa Vina Cuk (http://www.hisa-vina-cuk.si/) in the town of Lendava, where they have wine tasting and serve homemade cold cuts and cheeses. It is only a few kilometers from Turnisce where we are staying; but they said they would drop us off and come get us. I said no, we will be all right. Their offer should have been warning.

We did touristy stuff, saw a floating water mill, drove a wooden car, visited a church, etc., etc. waiting to go to the wine later in the day, and then a concert in the next little town tonight.




love island
About 3pm we had run out of things to do and headed for the wine. As we wound our way up the one lane hill through the vineyards we saw lots of people harvesting grapes. They all seemed to be family type operations. At Hisa Vina Cuk we parked and decided to walk around before going in. Little did we know how dangerous this can be in Slovenia. The first little winery I asked to take pictures and we wound up drinking many glasses of wine, red and white, right out of the tap!!!!! We got the whole tour and though they were busy harvesting, the father made us the most important people on his property. We finally decided we should move on as we still intended to Hisa Vina Cuk and drink, so we asked to buy a bottle of wine.  We paid the 3eur's for the bottle and then he gave us a free one.



fill 'er up

 heck, just help yourself!!!
 This is no phoo phoo sipping wine and spitting.  You fill up the glass and down that sucker!!




the label

We walked back to Hisa Vina Cuk and I saw a guy next door pressure washing a wine press, so I went to take pictures. This was the biggest mistake of all. We instantly became New Best Friends. Our NBF had finished harvesting and the party had begun. They started pouring them and us wine. It must have been 50 proof, as they watered it down with sparkling water. All kinds of eats came out. Almost everyone spoke english. After standing around the barrel we went to meet the wine maker and his operation. They still squeeze the grapes with a hand press. They make about 1600 liters a year and none is for sale. We sampled more wine. It is for the family and partner's private stock. We sampled more wine. We had to drink the fresh squeezed grape juice, we had to sample the wine, we had to eat, we had to sample the wine, we had to meet more people, we had to sample the wine, we had to tour the vineyard, we had to sample the wine, we had to tour the making process again and sample the wine. They kept trying to get Vicki in the barrel to mash grapes with her feet. We sampled more wine, They gave us a bottle. We sampled more wine. They gave us another bottle. We sampled more wine. We kissed the baby. We sampled more wine. They gave us another bottle. We sampled more wine. Did I mention that the wine was being served in 8oz water glasses? After several hours, we decided we had to get off the hill because my new friends at the policija station (friends but not NBF), who I had visited with earlier, were nice but probably were not going to let me drive home as drunk as I was gonna be if I stayed. We wound our way off the hill and back to the safety of the Dennison house. We missed the concert. The Slovenians keep proving every day that they are some of the nicest people in the world.

 our NBF


 i am off with my NBF to pick grapes...the bucket must weigh 20# by itself 
 they wear soccer clets to climb the hill when picking grape





Thank you our NBF.  You made a great trip for us even better!!!!



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Friday, October 1, 2010

OFF THE MOUNTAIN TO THE CAPITAL


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We said goodbye to the Bevk family and headed off the mountain. Our route to the capital was along the river in the valley floor so we were able to actually use the 5th gear in our Fiat Punto.

We reached Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia in a couple of hours. Slovenia is about the size of Pennsylvania and Ljubljana is about the size of the capital of Pennsylvania, Harrisburg. We rode around for a little while looking for parking and then gave up and headed for the railroad station. There is always parking at the RR station and it is close to the center of town. We had made no plans for accommodation even though the guide books said the hotels are usually pretty full. I figured that being the end of September a room would not be a problem. I was wrong. The very friendly young man at the tourist office had to make several calls before he found us a room. Sadly, our first choice, the hostel in the old prison was full. Just like in the old days. We wound up at the Park Hotel, but not in the hotel where the room was 90eur a night, but in the hostel part for 50eur a night. It was an odd arrangement. Two floors were a hostel, in the same building with the same reception and cafe as the rest of the hotel. We had a double room, our own bath, tv, etc. we just did not get a free breakfast for half the price of a hotel room in the same building.. I just wanted coffee and the waiter let me have that for free from the buffet so we came out way ahead. Besides, coffee is just 1,50.


Ljubljana is a strange town. The old part downtown is closed to traffic and not a large area. It is quite beautiful with a river running through, but it all seems to be brand new. You do not get a feel of history like in Italy or France. It almost has a Disney feel. It is by no means crowded though there is a lot of activity. People are very nice, as they are in the whole country. They do not even  j-walk. They all stand obediently for the cross-walk light. Their museums and especially their castle on the hill are odd as there seems to be no defined plan. While watching the “virtual history” movie the attendant came in and cut it off leaving us hanging about all that happened in the '80's and 90's the most important part of their history.

 each block is hand measured, set, and leveled
 i know it is here somewhere

the smile because the sun is out finally
the city center
Our hotel was full with various local and international groups in town for meetings and small conventions. This led to another strange thing. Almost anyone under 30 speaks english in Slovenia as they start learning in the 1st grade and study it all the way through school. But all these international groups, be it Japanese, Spanish, German or wherever they were from, were talking english fluently as their mutual language to communicate in. Wherever you went you heard english and every one talking with a different accent. (Don't get your ego's up. It is English, not American).

We met some very interesting people. By far the most interesting was Syed Ahmad Abdul Hadi bin Syed Hussien (try putting that on all those immigration forms)  and Lil G. Hadi for short. We were sitting outside at the hotel cafe when this small motorbike/scooter pulled up with Malaysia tags. After he checked in, he joined us for a beer. What a story. He had ridden this 130cc motorbike, a smaller engine than Scoot, from Malaysia to Slovenia and was going on to London. I am in awe still at this adventure. Unless you have ridden 2 wheelers it is almost impossible to understand this feat. It is right up there with the first climb up Mt. Everest. For the geographically challenged, that is a long way and includes the following countries; Malaysia, Thailand, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Iran, Turkey, Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia, Croatia, Hungry and Slovenia. From freezing Himyalas to desert temperature. All by himself. We spent quite a bit of time together and he could tell a good story. He made many of the challenging events sound hilarious. When he is not being crazy he works in disaster relief projects. Maybe that is why he has such a great sense of humor. Buy him a cup of coffee at http://immalaysian.com/
 hadi and lil g

vicki, hadi, and my beer

Next there was the crazy Croatian that came to a screeching halt on his bicycle outside a restaurant in his NY Giants hat and Yankees T-shirt in front of Vicki, Hadi and me. What a hoot he was as we talked baseball and about the waiters in the restaurant that were friends of his.

I came down early in the Park Hotel for coffee and to use the internet that was only available in the lobby and cafe. A Japanese gentleman came over and asked if I would help him with his computer. …...yep, you read that right. As his computer was the same as mine, I quickly diagnosed the problem. His WiFi was switched off. We had a great conversation for the next hour. His company had gone bankrupt last year and this was his last adventure before he started a new job.

In honor of our visit, the town decided to throw a big free concert for us right downtown. I even stayed out till after 11pm to see most of it. Yea, I know, amazing isn't it!

 day
 
 day
 night
 day
 night



this guy was good until he broke out in english